Eating in this two-story venue is strange but fun. After ordering from a menu full of set combos, waiters bring in more than a dozen small dishes, each holding a different snack, until the table is heaving with porcelain pots.

The star of the plate-driven feast is Qinhuai Eight Treasures, a dining concept featuring eight pairs of iconic eats that originated along the Qinhuai River. The 16 nibbles – half are dry dishes, others wet – are coupled by the restaurant to achieve the best gastronomic effect.